The Goobster is a party of salty, fatty, crunchy and gooey, all piled together on one gloriously messy three-bite slider roll. Everything that makes peanut butter and jelly great gets greater with beef, bacon and cheese. The best foods aren’t just the ones that taste great; they’re the foods that tell a story.
Outside the truck, people are standing about everywhere, waiting on food. Many take the food to go, headed lean and green meals optavia back inside to their air-conditioned offices. When your office is a truck, where’s the bathroom?
“People are constantly messaging me for advance notice on the trompo negro. They’re prepared to drive from as far as Fort Worth,” Hernandez brags. He texted me in May to say that La Fonda de Jaime sold one thousand tacos on Cinco de Mayo. “I was trying to put together tortillas with cornstarch” after he ran out, he jokes. In a refreshing change from the trendy birria de res on offer at most Texas taquerias these days, Jaime Hernandez instead cooks birria de chivo . The dish, which has become one of the truck’s best-sellers, takes three hours to prepare in an earthenware pot wrapped in pencas, or agave leaves.
You can order a pound of carnitas for $15.50, but Don Raúl’s best handshake deal is a taco stuffed with a surtido mix of carnitas in doubled-up corn tortillas for $3.59. The gooey stuff is skin, the rubbery stuff is stomach, the fibery stuff is shoulder, the delicious stuff is all of it, with a squeeze of lime and a hit of electric green salsa. It’s no surprise that the best thing we ate at King of Shawarma is also the trailer’s best seller.
A patacón is a Venezuelan sandwich with fried plantains in place of bread. The starchy fruit is pounded flat and fried crisp, with a subtle tropical flavor to complement sweet shredded brisket, ham, coleslaw and cheese. Chi Chi Birds start with corn tortillas fried to order for a bubbly crisp shell that are then packed with two perfectly fried chicken tenders and dressed out with slaw, pickled pink onions, Bird Sauce and salsa. They’re priced at five for $5, with a choice of refried beans, chicharrón, beef deshebrada or mashed potato, served with limes and shredded cabbage.